Five Days in Ashland, Oregon: Day #3 begins.....

Ashland Day #3

Food, wine, and history for the body and for the Soul

Another perfect fall day in the Rogue River Valley.  We departed our hotel for a stroll (and some bites) at the Rogue Valley Growers & Crafters Market.  Held every Tuesday (March-November) at the Ashland Armory, the market is replete with locally grown, farm fresh organic vegetables, fruits, bakery items, specialty foods, hand crafted gift items and more,  (including the most delectable, melt in your mouth almond croissants I have ever tasted)!  Lots to explore and shop for----and as a picture is worth 1000 words, enjoy the visual explorations:

Warm, delicious, the BEST almond croissants ever!  I can't believe I ate the whole thing

 and some entertainment...strummin' on the ole' banjo!  (No..NOT Deliverence)!

Following the Grower’s Market, we made a stop in historic Jacksonville and the unique, historic Jacksonville Cemetery.  This is one of the oldest cemeteries in Oregon.  Dating from 1859, tranquil and serene, it is the final resting place of many of Jacksonville’s early founders and citizens.  One of the things that makes this cemetery so unique and worthwhile to visit, is the division of grave sites into seven distinct areas, including Catholic, Jewish, Independent Order of Odd Fellows, and a Potters field.  Take the time to stroll through historic Jacksonville and Jacksonville Cemetery-and enjoy the 160 year step back in history.

Next up on our agenda for the day was a visit, tasting and lunch at Dancin Vineyards.  Greeted effusively by Dan Marca, and his wife Cindy, the first thing we found out was that, despite the fact that Cindy LOVES dancing, and will dance anytime, anywhere, the name was derived by combining the two names.  It was apropos, as Dan loves music……and as we were soon to experience, the award winning wines danced and sang with every sip.  Sipping a rose, listening to Dan, we drank in the beautiful vista.

Entering the covered patio where a long table was set for our tasting, Dan explained “their” story:  How he met Cindy (it really IS a love story), how they fell in love with the area, and the serendipitous circumstances that led them to this special place-where they produce elegant and highly acclaimed Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and Italian varietals.  With Dan’s huge smile that never left his face, and Cindy’s sparkling eyes and personality, we learned their history……as we started sampling a variety of wines, in yet another comfortable and refined setting, overlooking the vineyard property.  After a while it was time for the wine to sing and dance as we were served a perfectly paired lunch:



The beginning was cauliflower soup with toasted cashews, cracked pepper, parsley and shaved grana Padano---accompanied with a 2017 'En Avant’ Chardonnay.

Following the first course, we enjoyed an arugula salad with glazed walnuts and a Pinot Noir-Tarragon Vinaigrette, and the DANCIN 2017 'Septette' Pinot Noir.

The main course featured pan-seared duck breast on wild rice pancakes with mushrooms and cilantro sauce, with both a 2016 ‘Septette’ Pinot Noir and 2017 ‘Ecarte' Pinot Noir.

Finally, the dessert, accompanied with a perfectly paired 2014 ‘Finale’ Port style dessert wine was a cranberry-hazelnut spice cake, and house made vanilla bean ice cream.

As Dan and Cindy explained while we ate, all the wines have a story, and each wine is named after a music and dance theme.

There were several more interesting pieces of information that we learned during our visit, such as the story behind the tasting room, which is a tribute to a specific Sicilian Bar, and that Dancin was the first winery in the valley to offer full time food service. 

Dancin is hospitable, welcoming comfortable, and relaxing – but more than that, we came as visitors, and left as family.

But---we weren’t done yet!   Next up in the midafternoon was a visit to Cowhorn Vineyard & Garden. Cowhorn is a Biodynamic® farm and winery.  Owner/winemakers Barbara and Bill Steele have a deep rooted commitment to not only the land, what they grow and produce, how it is farmed, but to simply make the world a better place through their business philosophy to “educate and inspire.”  They are not only living their dream, they are examples of what dedication and vision can produce.

Perhaps one of the Steele’s most significant achievements has been to be designated as the first small business and tasting room in the world to achieve “living building certification” by the International Living Future Institute  (https://living-future.org).   To Barbara and Bill, being biodynamic and sustainable is a lifestyle they practice every day---and what they do shows in their wines.

 Stompin grapes...but not "Lucy" style

Following a tour of the winery, and extensive over view of Bill’s background and “how” Cowhorn came to be-we were treated to an extensive tasting of the esteemed Cowhorn wine portfolio. 

The location of Cowhorn is conducive to growing Rhone varietals.  As Josh Reynolds (Vinous) commented:  “The quality leader for the (Rhône) category in the state.”  We spent the rest of our afternoon tasting through Cowhorn’s lineup, as Bill continued to “educate and inspire” our group with vignettes of the vineyard and farm, and explaining the challenges, and rewards of their vision and accomplishments.  

Cowhorn is taking a leadership role in demonstrating how farming can be done in an ecologically responsible manner, using-and protecting the earth and nature.

                                                                             

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Following our visit to Cowhorn, we checked into the Litihia Springs Resort for our final two nights.  We had a few hours to relax and wander the grounds before getting ready for our winemaker’s dinner at Alchemy Restaurant & Bar with the wines of Quady North.

DINNER at Alchemy, to follow.......

Five Days in Ashland

Day #2

(Or:  Let the wine and food begin)

Following a nicely laid out continental breakfast at our hotel, we had free time this morning for some Ashland wandering.  Being a crisp, clear fall morning, I, along with some of our group chose to use this time for a more in-depth exploration of Lithia Park.  The park is 93 acres of nature, relaxation and amazement, with water features, gardens, a variety of trees and vibrant fall colors everywhere.  On this particular fall morning, there were joggers, families, a children’s art class, dogs and smiles---and the trees with their quintessential fall colors.  As one of our group commented:  “This is like wandering through a post card,” and indeed, that is what it felt like.

Strolling through Litiha Park

Even coming across some Oregon Ducks

Later that morning our group proceeded to Irvine & Roberts Vineyards.  We were welcomed by Dionne and Doug Irvine, owners, Vince Vidrine, winemaker, and Amira Makansi, marketing & Wine Club Coordinator and author!  The winery, sitting on a rise, overlooking mountains and vineyards was magical.  Following introductions, (while sipping a glass of Rose of Pinot Noir), we were given a history of the owners and the winery.  This is a special micro-climate in the Rogue River Valley, and one of the few wineries in the area to produce Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.  With a brief description of the vineyards, terroir and farming practices we then began a tasting of the wines from this ultra-premium boutique winery.

     Vince, Dionne, Doug, Amira...our hosts                    A View from the Tasting Room

Wine is experiential, creating and evoking memories; this tasting certainly created memories.  Sitting at a long table, with wine glasses laid out before us, we were walked through the lineup of Irvine & Roberts wines by winemaker Vince Vidrine.  Being able to experience wines from this region, as compared to California counterparts, was indeed a privilege.  Over the next few hours we explored the Chardonnay, a Pinot Meunier (a light and elegant derivative of Pinot Noir, but not so well known), and several refined Pinot Noirs.  The last Pinot, the 2017 Wadenswil Block was described as “often a serious, contemplative wine.”  Contemplative was definitely the descriptor here:  Sitting in the inviting, comfortable tasting room, overlooking what can only be described as a Shangri-La type of view of the mountains and vineyards spread out before us, you could only sip, revel in the surrounding scenery and contemplate being a part of this slice of heaven.

The Wine Tasting Begins

It was then time to indulge in a consummate Wine Country Lunch.  Sitting out on the patio, with the sun reflecting off the vineyard leaves, the mountains in back, we were treated to an epicurean adventure in fine country cooking.  Served family style, with wine glasses full, the parade of food began:  

On the patio--A Wine Country Lunch Table of Food and Wine

*Pear & Fall Greens Salad (squash, radish, almonds, with a mustard vinaigrette).

*Herb marinated & Grilled Vegetables (zucchini, asparagus, sweet peppers, Portobello mushrooms), you could taste the freshness.

*Coq au Vin (with mushrooms, caramelized pearl onions, and Pinot Noir) served in a casserole dish along with slow roasted Yukon gold potatoes (and yes, I did help myself to seconds and thirds). 

As if this wasn’t enough……we then were treated to the piece d resistance---actually two:



*Fall Apple Tart (in an almond crust, with candied kumquats).  How many ways can you say yummy?  BUT……in addition, for the true chocoholics was the most decadent chocolate dessert-ever! (In my opinion):

*Dark chocolate mousse (lavender sugar, & Chantilly cream), served on a thin, pure chocolate wafer.  OMG!!!

The day was filled with fun, laughter, great wine (lots of wine), great food (lots of food), and just the most genuine friendliness and ambience you could imagine.  My thought, as we said goodbye to our hosts was “if there is a heaven-this is it.”

Arriving back at our hotel at about 3:00pm we had an opportunity to walk around Ashland, relax, and prepare……for our 7:30 dinner at Harvey’s Place-

a local American Bar &Grill, serving up traditional comfort food, in a relaxed atmosphere, with a full bar and knock your socks off blood orange margaritas.

This blood orange margarita packed quite a wallop

 Some Shareables:  Clams               Dungeness Crab Salad                      Fresh Oregon Crab Cakes

And, of course, a selection of shareable desserts

Harvey’s was a great place to just sit back and relax in a casual, fun environment-as we were able to talk about the day, the wines and people we had been blessed to meet and share time with.  Following dinner at Harvey’s, we returned to the hotel-ready for day #3 in Ashland, Oregon and the Rogue River Valley.